Type: Tool Cabinet Manufacturer Part Number: Does Not Apply.Vintage MAC tool box filled with MAC and Craftsman Tools - 1,100 (Norwalk) For sale is a used (vintage) MAC tool box / chest. This handsome chest is based on the one Thomas MacDonald built as a North Bennet Street student.Mac Tools Macsimizer Series Enormous Tool Box 13 Drawers Colour: Blue Depth: 25in Width: 67in. You can quickly access everything you need from the home menu, and the tool will live in the. Pros Quick start and intuitive interface: When setting up Daemon Tools, everything you need is onscreen right away. History list tracks image files mounted recently, so you can get back to processed images any time you need.Saves money versus buying each tool.First published in the December 2012 issue of Popular Woodworking MagazineBuilding a toolbox much like this one was a real turning point in my woodworking career. All are powered by the same battery pack and charger. The tools are all used , but , in good working order.Combine power and hand tools to improve your joinery skills.Get the cordless tools you need in one kit for easy carry and storage. All the tools in the pictures are the ones you get.
Tool Box Mac Tools Macsimizer![]() Next, straighten one edge with the jointed face against the fence. Take off about 1⁄16″ with each pass until the face is flat. Check the grain direction of the wood and watch for tear-out. I call the first session “rough mill” because I cut the parts out of the rough board leaving about 1″ over in length, 1⁄2″ over in width and 1⁄8″ over in thickness.First, flatten one face on the jointer. As a rule of thumb, avoid taking more than 1/4″ of wood off of the thickness of a board in one milling. Note that some parts, such as the case divider fronts, must be fitted to the box rather than cut to dimensions now. Leave the boards overnight then repeat the milling process to bring the boards to final dimensions. Mill the boards to the sizes in the cutlist plus the overage described above.Stack the parts with stickers between and align them vertically so each board is supported by the one below it. Run each part through the planer with the jointed face down. Take a short pass along the middle of the edges, then another along more of the length and a final pass along the full length. Before edge-gluing, clamp each mating pair of boards face to face and handplane the edges to “spring” the joint. To get dovetail pins spaced equally, walk the compass across the work and make adjustments until the spacing is just right.The wider outside case parts should be glued up from narrower boards a full-width board may cup over time. Take light cuts to avoid changing the thickness or taking it out of square.Pin spacing. Then use a compass or dividers to make seven equal divisions between the 3⁄16″ marks you just made (above). Start by measuring and marking 3⁄16″ from each edge. Then, lay out the pins on the ends of a side board. Set a marking gauge to the thickness of the case parts and mark around the faces and edges at both ends of each board. After the glue has dried, clean up any excess and trim the parts to final width and length.Start by laying out the pins on the ends of the case side boards. Add more clamps if necessary. Square the lines down the inside and outside faces to the marking-gauge line.Stop that rabbet. Measure 3⁄16″ on either side of the marks and, from that point, draw the dovetail angle across the end grain to the inside face. Transfer the divider marks to the outside face. The points where the dividers hit are the center points of the pins. When they land directly on the line, the space is evenly divided. Check the surfaces with a square and pare each cheek and shoulder until they are true.When the pins are finished, scribe the tails. Chop halfway in, then flip the board and come in from the opposite face to finish the waste removal. Use a chisel to chop to the marking gauge line. Carefully saw on the waste side of each pencil line, then use a coping saw to cut out the bulk of the waste. Do not adjust the pins.First lay out the dados for the case dividers on the inside faces of the sides. Use a chisel to pare the tails to fit. Lightly test-fit each corner and mark where the joints are too tight to close. Saw out the bulk of the waste and chop to the marking-gauge lines. Trace the pins using a sharp pencil.Square the tail lines across the ends of the boards then cut carefully on the waste side of all of the lines. Align the inside face of the pins with the marking gauge line on the inside face of the top or bottom board. Once it is against the fence, push the piece to the front stop then slowly swing the back of the piece away from the cutter.Notch your clamping cauls around the pins so they press only on the tails. To make sure the dovetail joints seat completely, make a clamping caul that applies pressure on only the tails.To make the cuts, set the back corner of the side against the rear stop and slowly move the piece toward the fence and into the cutter. The dados are all 1⁄2″ wide x 1⁄8″ deep and are cut across the entire face.Custom caul. The slots are 1⁄4″ thick x 13⁄4″ long, and go through the full width of the front and back frame parts, centered in the thickness of the parts. The two upper dividers have a middle rail with stub tenons.Begin by cutting the slots in the long stiles. The outside corners of the frames are joined with bridle or slip joints. Now leave the clamps on until the glue has fully cured.Frames divide the case and act as drawer supports. Once the glue starts to set, remove the clamps and glue the top corners, checking for square. These frames support the drawers and fit in dados.Now cut and fit the frame tenons using your dado stack and table saw. The case is divided using frames with slip joints at the ends and stub tenons where needed for a center divider. Without moving the fence, lower the dado stack to 1⁄4″ and cut grooves on the inside edges of the top two frames.Frame-up. When done, cut grooves for the stub tenons in the front and back pieces. Cut the slots with the parts on end using a backer board, such as tenoning jig, to support the piece. If necessary, clamp the slip joints closed so the joints don’t flare out. Make sure the frames are square. After all of the joints are fit, trim the tenons on the center runners to 1⁄4″ long.With the frame joinery complete, glue up the frames and fit them to the case. For the top two center rails, cut the tenons at the same time as the rest. Cut the top face of the tenons first, then fit the joint by trimming the bottom face. The dado stack should be set to cut just 1⁄8″ high. 4 best android emulator for mac run android apps macbookOnce the glue dries, handplane them flush to the frames. Glue on the faces, allowing additional length on each end for the dovetails. Mill them just thicker than the frames. Fit the frames to the dados in the case sides by planing the bottom surfaces.When the frames are done, glue on the cherry divider faces. On the edge, mark 1⁄2″ from one face. To make it, mill a piece of scrap to 3⁄4″ thick x 4″ wide (and make sure it’s a scrap that allows you to work a safe distance from the blade). As an aid to cutting the dovetails on the divider fronts, use a shop-made “ramp block” to guide the chisel and help achieve consistent sizes and angles.I use a “ramp block” that helps me make the dovetails for the drawer divider front. When done, cut each end of the cherry faces to length.Guided chisel. Now slide each frame into place and mark the dovetail length and the bottom of the dovetail dado on the face piece. Repeat this on the top and bottom of both ends of all of the dividers.When done, fit the dividers to the case. Chop down on the dado mark and remove chips until the chisel rides flat on the ramp block. The block should be perpendicular to the face piece and tight against its end. Skim off any saw marks with a handplane.Clamp the ramp block and divider as shown below. With the scrap on edge, rip the angle into the piece. Remove the dividers, square the lines down the inside face and mark the 3⁄4″ depth of the sockets.
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